From Underdog to Trendsetter: The Robust Journey of Robusta Coffee

Coffee, a staple in daily routines around the globe, predominantly comes in two types: arabica and robusta. Each type presents a unique flavor profile and experience for coffee lovers. Recently, robusta, which traditionally played second fiddle to the more renowned arabica, is experiencing a surge in popularity. This emerging trend in the coffee industry signifies a growing appreciation for robusta's distinct attributes.

In this journey through the world of robusta coffee, we'll explore its rollercoaster ride in the global coffee market. From its early widespread adoption to a period of decline, followed by a recent revival, the story of robusta is not just about a coffee bean variety. It's a narrative interwoven with shifts in consumer preferences, economic dynamics, and the coffee industry's resilience. This exploration will uncover why robusta, long considered the lesser-known sibling in the coffee family, is now capturing the attention of coffee aficionados worldwide.

Historical Perspective and Rise of Robusta

Robusta coffee, known scientifically as Coffea canephora, initially carved its niche in Italy. Facing economic challenges under Mussolini, Italy turned to robusta beans from North Africa. Italian ingenuity, rooted in making the most of available resources, adapted robusta to their coffee culture. Key figures like Achille Gaggia and Francesco Illy were instrumental in integrating robusta, particularly in espresso making.

The slow roasting methods in coal- and wood-fired machines in Italy uncovered robusta's hidden flavors, transforming its harsher notes into more nuanced tastes. The espresso brewing technique, with its rapid, high-pressure extraction, further enhanced robusta's appeal by emphasizing its rich body and minimizing less desirable flavors, often complemented with sugar in Italian cafés.

By the 1980s, robusta was not just a budget choice in Italy; it had evolved into a preferred flavor among coffee enthusiasts. Italian coffee catalogs from this period featured a variety of robusta beans, each with its distinct profile, rivaling arabicas in price and popularity.

However, the tide turned for robusta when Illy began promoting its "100% Arabica" espresso blend, and the Vietnamese economy focused on exporting low-quality robusta for instant coffee. This, along with Starbucks' expansion emphasizing 100% arabica, diminished robusta's reputation among coffee connoisseurs.

Credit: Nguyen Coffee Supply

The resurgence of robusta coffee in recent times has been marked by new players in the industry, like Nguyen Coffee Supply. This emerging company is part of a wave of modern coffee enterprises revisiting robusta's potential. Nguyen Coffee Supply, by focusing on high-quality, sustainably sourced robusta beans from Vietnam, is challenging previous perceptions and showcasing robusta's richness and versatility. Their approach blends traditional robusta flavors with modern, sustainable practices, contributing significantly to the bean's renewed global interest and popularity.

This renewed interest sets the backdrop for understanding robusta's fall and rise in the coffee world, exemplifying how contemporary businesses are reshaping the narrative around this once underappreciated coffee variety.

The Unique Characteristics of Robusta Beans

The distinction between robusta and arabica beans is rooted in their inherent characteristics, growing conditions, and resulting flavors. Robusta, known for its resilience, thrives in a wider range of environments compared to its arabica counterpart. It can endure higher temperatures, is less susceptible to pests and diseases, and withstands harsh weather better. This hardiness stems from the fact that robusta plants are typically grown at lower altitudes in varied soil types.

In terms of flavor, robusta and arabica beans offer contrasting profiles. Arabica beans are celebrated for their brighter, fruitier taste, often featuring notes of apple, grape, and berry. On the other hand, robusta is known for its earthier, more robust flavors. Descriptions of robusta often include woody or peanutty notes, and in less favorable circumstances, it can even have a burning tire-like taste. However, when roasted and brewed with care, robusta can develop rich and intriguing flavors, including toffee, cedar, and forest floor nuances.

Robusta also differs from arabica in its caffeine content, sugar levels, and lipids. It contains about twice the caffeine of arabica, which contributes to its stronger, more bitter taste. Additionally, robusta beans have half the natural sugars and lipids compared to arabica, influencing their flavor profile and the way they react during roasting. These unique qualities of robusta, once overlooked, are now being explored and appreciated in new ways as the coffee industry evolves.

Enhancing the Taste of Robusta

The quest to unlock the full potential of robusta coffee has led to innovative roasting and brewing techniques. Unlike arabica, which deteriorates in flavor after a few months in storage, robusta can develop a more refined and pleasant profile over time. This accidental discovery was noted by the author in the Saveur article, who found that 'aged' robusta beans exhibited a mellowed taste, with a sweeter profile and oakier aromatics, as opposed to their initial petrol-forward notes.

Key to enhancing robusta's flavor is the roasting process. Given robusta's different physical characteristics - such as lower density and different sugar content due to being grown at lower altitudes and higher temperatures - it requires a unique roasting approach. To bring out the best in each batch of robusta, roasters must consider these variables when developing their roasting profile. The goal is to unlock robusta's potential flavors, which can range from tea, lemon, honey, vanilla, and caramel to more exotic notes like coffee blossom, malt, butter, and spices. Modern standards for fine robusta, as developed by the Coffee Quality Institute, now recognize a broad range of desirable flavors far beyond a simple clean and smooth cup.

This evolution in roasting standards reflects a broader shift in how robusta is perceived and enjoyed. The coffee community is increasingly recognizing that high-quality robusta can yield complex and delicate cup profiles. With the right roasting technique, robusta beans can achieve high sweetness, a creamy body, and an array of exotic sensory notes, challenging the long-held belief that they are inferior to arabica. This progress represents a significant change in the coffee world, elevating robusta from its status as a commodity coffee to a bean capable of providing a sophisticated and enjoyable coffee experience.

The Future and Challenges of Robusta Coffee

As the coffee industry navigates a changing world, robusta's role in its future is both promising and complex. The recent increased interest in specialty or “fine” robusta, due to its lower production costs compared to arabica, has led many specialty coffee roasters to experiment with robusta-arabica blends or even single origin robusta offerings. However, this shift is not without its challenges and misconceptions.

One significant hurdle is the longstanding belief that robusta can simply replace arabica in all contexts. Recent findings challenge this assumption, suggesting that while robusta may survive in higher temperatures and tougher climatic conditions, its yield and cost-effectiveness are not guaranteed. The cost of production relative to profit remains a crucial consideration for coffee growers.

Given these complexities, a more nuanced approach is needed to address the future of coffee farming. Instead of a straightforward switch from arabica to robusta, a more tailored strategy is suggested. This approach involves evaluating each coffee-growing region and farm individually, considering factors such as climate adaptability and crop diversification. By introducing other crops like cacao or avocados, farmers can create a more sustainable and resilient agricultural system.

The future of robusta in the coffee industry, therefore, lies not just in its potential as a substitute for arabica, but in its integration into a broader, more diverse agricultural strategy. This approach recognizes the unique strengths of robusta while addressing the challenges of climate change, market demands, and sustainable farming practices. As the industry evolves, robusta coffee stands as a symbol of adaptability and potential, offering new avenues for coffee lovers and farmers alike.

The resurgence of robusta coffee in the global market is more than just a trend; it symbolizes a significant shift in the coffee industry's approach to diversity, adaptability, and sustainability. As we've explored, robusta's journey from an overlooked variety to a bean of growing interest reflects changes in consumer tastes, economic dynamics, and environmental challenges.

Robusta, with its unique flavor profile, resilience to harsh environmental conditions, and newfound appreciation in the specialty coffee community, is proving to be a valuable asset in the diverse world of coffee. Its potential goes beyond being just an alternative to arabica; it represents a crucial element in the future of sustainable coffee production, especially in the face of climate change and economic pressures.

This growing appreciation for robusta encourages a more inclusive and varied coffee culture, where different tastes and preferences are recognized and celebrated. As the coffee industry continues to evolve, robusta stands as a testament to the dynamic and ever-changing nature of this beloved beverage. Its story is a reminder of the importance of embracing diversity, both in the cup and in the fields, ensuring that the rich tapestry of coffee continues to thrive for generations to come.